Textiles, in new forms and old, ruled supreme on the third day of the Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW), Autumn-Winter 2018. The design line-up of the day included a mix bag of bamboo weave ikat, pure silks and a new man-made fabric, called liva.
Industry veterans Sonam Dubal and Madhu Jain looked towards to the Northeastern part of the country for their respective lines. Dubal used a lot of velvet and mirror work for his line, which featured kimono jackets, wraps and long dresses. The capes invoked the style used by the Tibetan monks, with long loose sleeves. Rich maroons, blacks and chocolate brown dominated Dubal’s line, while beadwork, block printing and woven textiles were used for embellishments.
Textile revivalist Madhu Jain presented her collection ‘M’ which looked towards Manipur. The show even kicked off with a Pung Cholam presentation, native to the state. She used her signature bamboo silk ikat weave and merged it with a lot of Thai influences, especially the weft style of Mudmee weave from Thailand. The collection had long kurtas, capes, saris and duppattas with intricate patterns in warm colours of indigo, maroon, mustard, and black.
Mumbai-based designer Aartivijay Gupta used a lot of silk to present the Gond paintings of Madhya Pradesh on her clothes. The tribal motifs, with enlarged eyes, trees and animal prints were used to add drama to a collection that was leaning on the anti-fit side of design. Free-flowing capes, loose pants and shirts in pastel blues, black, and hints of forest green seem perfect for an autumn look. Ilk, by designers Vinita Adhikari and Shikha Grover Goel used a lot of textured cotton to add layers and complexity to their collection, called #offline. Saris were paired with blouses that had churidaar sleeves, dresses, jackets with asymmetrical hemlines were the takeaways from the collection. Old school tassels were used quite liberally to embellish their line, which had clothes in shades of teal, subdued violet and warm marigold.
The new fabric of style
Liva, a new fabric, and a branchild of the Aditya Birla Group, is made from natural cellulose fibres produced from wood pulp. The multifaceted fabric was interpreted and given a new twist by a mix of veteran and upcoming designers. Anju Modi, who is known for her Indian wear, used the fabric for kurtas, long jackets, dresses, dhoti pants and draped duppattas.
Warm hues of red, honey mustard and teal dominated the line. Gaurav Jai Gupta used the fabric in all its textured glory, with mosaic tiles being the signature print. Long coats, wrap short jackets, loose pants in navy blue, slate grey and black make for an edgy look. Schulen Fernandes for Wendell Rodricks presented an all-white line, called The White Carpet Collection, in the form of fitted body con dresses, backless and off-shoulder numbers. There was a lot of use of sheer fabric to give the collection an almost ethereal look. Minimalistic beading and embroidery in white was used to give a baroque feel to the line.